Four High Jewelers Will Make Their Debuts At TEFAF Maastricht

There is more change and growth to the contemporary high jewelry portion of TEFAF Maastricht this year than any time since 2016, when I first attended the venerable art and antique fair. And the changes appear, on its surface at least, to be positive for collectors and attendees.

Indian high jeweler, Bhagat, and Swiss high jeweler, Boghossian, have left the show. Both jewelers seemed determined to treat the public venue as an extension of their private salons. For example, Viren Bhagat, owner of the Indian jewelry house that exhibited at the fair since 2020, never allowed photographs of his diamond jewels during the fair, refused to do interviews and only provided one photo of his collection each year to the press (I did manage to get a five-minute interview with him on the showroom floor in his first year). Boghossian didn’t allow public photos at the venue in its first year at the fair in 2022 but eventually eased that restriction the following years. Still availability to the Boghossian family was limited.

These jewelers are being replaced by Margot McKinney, Santi, Buccellati and Feng J. They will join fair regulars: Hemmerle, Otto Jakob, Anna Hu, Forms and Van Cleef & Arpels.

These jewelers are among the 260 galleries and artists from about 20 countries who will be exhibiting at The European Fine Arts Fair Maastricht (its full name), March 15 – 20 at the MECC Maastricht convention center, with two invitation-only preview days on March 13 and 14.

The galleries and artists at the art, design and antiquities fair presents objects that span nearly all of civilization, but it’s best known for its collection of Old Masters paintings. The contemporary high jewelry houses play an important role in creating a more diverse fair. For these high jewelers, TEFAF Maastricht is one the very few public events that attract the collectors they seek.

TEFAF Maastricht Newcomers
Fourth generation jeweler, Margot McKinney, has access to some of the most spectacular natural gems from her home in Australia and around the world. She uses these materials to craft big, bold and classic gem-centric jewels for her well-heeled and well-connected private clients. She has an elegant demeaner and a total command of the entire process of making exceptional pieces, which she communicates with elegance and skill. Recently, she has been becoming more public, creating fine jewelry collections and opening a pop-up in Bergdorf Goodman.

McKinney is promising a specular debut at TEFAF Maastricht in both the items she is offering and the exhibition space she’s creating. However, details are almost non-existent. We’ll see.

Krishna Choudhary, founder of Santi Jewels, is a 10th-generation jeweler from Jaipur, a city with an unrivaled gemstone and jewelry heritage. He founded his private jewelry business in London in 2019 creating contemporary interpretations of jewels in the Mughal tradition. He produces very few pieces per year that are rarely ever shown publicly.

TEFAF marks only the second time Choudhary will show his jewels to the public. His exhibition will feature 25 contemporary pieces, many of which will debut at the fair and which will presented alongside a selection of the historical Mughal jewels and objects from the family collection that inspired them. The exhibition will include some of the most important portrait diamonds in the world. A portrait diamond is a specific diamond shape that is thin and flat, resembling a pane of glass.

Buccellati needs no introduction. The high jewelry and silversmith house is known for its Italian style, design and regional craftsmanship. This will be a second coming for Buccellati at TEFAF. The brand previously exhibited at the fair from 1992 to 2014. Jewels being presented this year honor the creativity of Gianmaria Buccellati, the man who first brought Buccellati to TEFAF. He also is credited with turning the family business into a global luxury brand.

Among the new fine jewelry pieces is a bracelet and necklace set from the “Opera High Jewellery Collection” designed by Buccellati’s current creative director, Andrea Buccellati.

Vintage items will include diamond-studded brooches from the 1960s and a set of earrings, pendant and brooch with aquamarines from the 1970s, which the brand says reveals Gianmaria Buccellati’s passion for the goldsmith’s art and Buccellati’s tradition of craftsmanship.

High jewelry artist, Feng J, is the first jewelry exhibitor at TEFAF from Mainland China and the youngest jeweler to exhibit at the fair. The 39-year-old artist has workshops and offices in Paris and Shanghai. Much of her inspiration comes from French impressionist paintings and her motifs, materials and techniques combine western and eastern influences. Her most impressive technique is what she calls, “floating gems,” in which she replicates the effect of the impressionist artists’ brushstrokes. It involves mounting double rose-cut gems in gently colored electroplated gold or titanium prongs. She says this allows the metalwork to “disappear,” making the jewels appear almost weightless.

Feng J is one of 10 exhibitors in the “TEFAF Showcase,” a dedicated space that supports young and emerging dealers and artists.

Established TEFAF Jewelers
Hemmerle is very much an established brand in TEFAF. The Munich-based high jeweler has been exhibiting at the fair since 1997. Christian Hemmerle, co-owner of Hemmerle with his wife Yasmin, has been a member of the TEFAF Board of Trustees since 2018.

More importantly, this is a company known for its unique designs, exceptional handcraftsmanship and a contemporary eye. Hemmerle is one of the most collectible contemporary jewelers in the world with its pieces appearing frequently at auction. Among its signature techniques are reverse-set diamonds that appear like spikes and using objects of antiquities to create contemporary jewels.

Otto Jakob has been a favorite at TEFAF Maastricht since his first appearance in 2008. The self-taught German goldsmith creates miniature artworks that are based on the varied techniques and aesthetics of Italian goldsmiths such as Cellini to Castellani; Etruscan, Celtic and Hellenistic periods; and other far-flung influences such as the readings of Pliny the Elder. He mastered the ancient skills of weaving gold, granulation, rope twist decoration and cloisonné enamel.
He also combines all this creative history with modern technology, such as the use of 3D printing and he also is known for using organic materials like petrified woods and leaves.

Anna Hu, the Taiwanese born high jewelry artist, creates pieces that encompass an “east meets west” philosophy with motifs that encompass nature and music, which reflects her previous career as an accomplished cellist. She’s been exhibiting at TEFAF Maastricht since 2022.

One of the two new collections she is presenting is “Dance of Butterflies,” which is a tribute to the Chinese 24-Solar-Term tradition, blending her cultural heritage with nano-electroplating and titanium artistry. This collection introduces eight butterfly brooches, each symbolizing one of the “eight festivals,” marking the beginning of spring, summer, fall and winter; the spring and fall equinoxes; and the summer and winter solstices. Hu says each brooch pays homage to ancient wisdom, her cultural heritage and her respect for nature.

The high jewelry house, Forms, based in Hong Kong was founded in 2010 by Elad Assor and Tzvika Janover. The company produces about 100 pieces per year and is one of the few high jewelers that is truly contemporary, meaning that their creations do not seem to adhere to traditional standards of jewelry making. The name “Forms,” while sounding generic, is a proper description of the sculptural jewels the company produces, which employ many modern techniques. All pieces are produced at their workshop in Hong Kong by an international team of skilled designers and artisans.

The internationally acclaimed French jewelry house, Van Cleef & Arpels, has been exhibiting at TEFAF Maastricht since 2013. While it will have some its recent artistic and poetic creations at its booth, the focus, as it is each year, is in the brand’s Heritage collection. More than 30 historic creations will be available for purchase. These pieces embody the Van Cleef & Arpels style and illustrate the evolution of jewelry making and its role in the decorative arts of the 20th century.